Each squash will yield 2 to 4 servings, depending on its size. Remember that the skin is edible after the squash is cooked.

Select firm, unblemished delicata squash. Wash the rind well. Cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Use a sharp paring knife to cut out the ring of seeds in the center; a sharp, small biscuit cutter also works well for this. Brush both sides of the squash rings with olive oil; sprinkle with kosher salt and black pepper. Grill over medium heat for about 5 minutes, then turn carefully and continue grilling until tender, about 5 minutes longer.

This simple recipe is infinitely variable. You could substitute melted butter, a mix of butter and olive oil, or a mix of olive and pumpkinseed oil for the olive oil. For a sweeter variation, brush the top surface of the rings with maple syrup after flipping them. To kick it up a notch, you might also like to sprinkle the maple syrup glaze with a little chili powder. Try sprinkling curry powder, blackening spices, or another blend on the slices in place of the salt and pepper. You could also sprinkle the cooked rings with fresh, chopped herbs right before serving.

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